Long before Italy became the nation we now see, she was divided into constantly warring city-states which shared few cultural traditions and no spoken language. In spite of regional differences, Italian food in general is often characterized as being flexible and innovative, building itself on a model of theme and variation.

It is surprising how many people who believe they are familiar with Italian cooking are unaware of the regional differences that exist. Pasta is the first course in a meal for most Italians with the exception of the far north. Here risotto or polenta is the norm. For the most part, meat does not play a regular part of many Italian diets with vegetables, grains and legumes taking center stage in most homes. Olive oil is often seen in its dark green state (from its first pressing) in the south. You will see a more refined, golden oil in the north.
As far as suggesting the best olive oil to use, I must first stress your choice depends upon the use of the oil and your own personal tastes. Many people prefer a fruity, golden oil and for them I would recommend using a product from Lucca. I used to live in Pisa which is near Lucca and consequently we would have Luccan olive oil on the table all the time. It has a delicious fruity, bright green aroma and the taste would often have a pleasant sharpness or bite to it. My oil of choice, though, comes from the rich, dark green olives of Sicily. I grew up with this and find the earthy, heavier, aromatic liquid almost makes me swoon with anticipation. So powerful is the flavor, I find I use much less than when I use the more refined, golden oils.
Although focaccia originates from Genoa, you will see a softer, thicker version in Apulia which is made of potatoes. This is chewy and delicious, especially lightly brushed with that dark green, southern Italian olive oil.
Basically, Italian cuisine is a combination of vegetables, grains, fruits, fish, cheeses and a scattering of meats, fowl and game usually seasoned or cooked with olive oil (with the exception of the far north). The reliance upon what the country can produce has shaped a diet popular for centuries, particularly with the poorer Italian people, and is called la cucina povera. Now we are seeing a resurgence of this “poor people’s food” and the Mediterranean diet is being touted as the model around which we should restructure our eating habits.

For all of its variation and its celebrated incarnation in the home, Italian cuisine has had a profound influence on cooking and eating throughout Europe, and particularly in France. In 1533, Catherine de Médicis married the future Henry II of France and brought to her new home cooks and pastry-makers who lay the groundwork for French haute cuisine. Moreover, it seems that the Italians were the first in Europe to use a fork (Venetians) and the first to consider both the order of courses — which presented an array of dishes — and the relationship of the dishes served (Florentines). And, finally, these busy Italians brought sweets, preserves, and fruit pastes to the western world.

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